Dry Glazes and Engobes for Cone 6
This is obviously NOT to be used for functional pieces (for those that are new to ceramics), only sculptural pieces. Best when used over heavy texture, carving, sprigging etc and applying the engobe in varying thicknesses in combination with the dry glaze.
These recipes and techniques come from an Australian ceramic artist by the name of Simone Fraser. I have long admired Simone’s work. The recipes and techniques below were obtained whilst studying ceramics at Hornsby TAFE some years ago. Her website is well worth a visit to see some examples of how she still uses these engobes, dry glazes and techniques. http://www.simonefraser.com.au/
Step One - Apply Engobe to leatherhard clay over texture and bisque fire to Cone 06. You can cover the entire tile/piece or sponge back in places to reveal the clay body underneath, which gives you another variation (very nice).
I don't nearly have enough texture on these tiles for this to work effectively, but at least it's a guide. When heavier texture is used, it gives the ability to apply the engobe thickly and then remove some in the high areas giving better results.
Photo below is just to give you an idea of the colour of the engobe on its own after bisque firing. You can also add more oxide quantity to each engobe base than I have here. Additionally, you can make up other colours. Up to you. Test, test, test. The engobes don't look like much when initially fired to Cone 06 but at Cone 6 with dry glazes etc over the top, they work their magic.
Engobe Base Recipe
Eckalite 60
Silica 20
Potash Feldspar 20
Bentonite 3
Step Two - After bisque firing the engobed tiles, I apply various oxides washes over engobes then sponge off/back in completely in areas to ensure that the underlying engobe is also visible.
NOTE: In all of the tiles shown here I have used a 'Rutile' wash (resulting in red) and a 'Manganese' wash (resulting in a metallic dark brown to black). You will notice that the wash is prominent in the deeper texture here but that is up to you. Also, other oxides work too. Again test.
When I was taught at college, we were only taught to use the engobe and dry glazes in combinations. I have found that adding the oxides wash just adds another dimension.
Step Three - I then sponge on the 'Dry Glazes' so that they appear on the very top surface. This allows the underlying engobe, oxide wash and clay surface to show through.
There are endless possibilities with this dry glazing technique. They can be sponged on, dipped, brushed on and then wiped back. I like sponging on or brushing using a stiff fan brush as it then just touches the surface as I am trying to keep the deeper texture free from glaze.
I have not covered all the variations as they are endless. I find that it works well to use contrasting engobes/oxides under the glaze to achieve the best results.
Here are 3 tiles and how I decorated each one. I see that I have alot of improving to do with this techniques, but trial and error is the key to success.
Tile One
This tile has the following;
· Engobe with 4% Chrome added to the base. Painted covering the entile tile.
· Rutile wash on the left and Manganese wash on the right and sponged back lightly in places.
· Cobalt Dry Glaze (Base with 2% Cobalt) sponged all over the very surface, making sure not to sponge in deeper textured areas.
Tile Two
This tile has the following;
· Engobe with 1.5% Cobalt Carb added to the base. Painted covering the entile tile.
· Rutile wash on the left and Manganese wash on the right and sponged back lightly in places.
· Moss Green/Brown Dry Glaze (Base with 3.5% Yellow Iron Ox plus 3% Copper Carb) sponged all over the very surface, making sure not to sponge in deeper textured areas. Moss Green/Brown tends to be green where heavier and moss brown were lighter application is achieved.
Tile Three
This tile has the following;
· Engobe with 8% Iron Ox added to the base. Painted covering the entile tile.
· Rutile wash on the left and Manganese wash on the right and sponged back lightly in places.
· Cobalt Dry Glaze (Base with 2% Cobalt) sponged all over the very surface, making sure not to sponge in deeper textured areas.
Dry Glaze Base Recipe
Eckalite 2 23 (I think EPK would be a sub, as Eckalite is a Kaolin)
Soda Feldspar 16
Whiting (calc carb) 28
Molochite #200 23
Frit 4193 8
Add; 2% Cobalt for Blue
3.5% Yellow Iron Ox plus 3% Copper Carb for Moss Green / Brown
6% Copper Carb for Apple Green (i did not have an example of that
variation above)
hello jan,
ReplyDeletewe love your dry glazes - do you happen to know what american frit (in the USA) would most closely match frit 4193 you use in your recipe? thanks, carol and christine
Hi Christine, Sorry for the delay in replying to your question. I regularly refer to the website digitalfire.com for a lot of technical info. Here is what they say for a replacement frit for the ferro frit 4193. see link (copy and paste into address bar). Hope this helps you. Let me know. Thanks for stopping by.
Deletehttp://digitalfire.com/4sight/material/ferro_frit_4193_2980.html
Christine, Here is another info site on frit substitutes
Deletehttp://www.oocities.org/peter_stephens/FerroFrits.html
Hi Jan, why are these called "dry glazes"? I'm very new in pottery, but love engobe/wash/glaze combination you are sharing here. The base recipe yow mix with water, right? Sorry if i sound stupid:) Thank you for sharing that beautiful technique, Urszula
ReplyDeleteHi Urzula, sorry for delay. All engobes and dry glaze recipes are mixed with water, yes. Just the end result of the glaze is very Matt or dry to touch. As in the texture. Not a silly question as there are so many things to learn with ceramics. We are all always learning if we did this craft a life time. All the best.
DeleteHi Jan, what does "dry glaze" mean? You do mix base with water, right? Sorry, never heard about dry glazes, love your work and really want to try it, thank you.
ReplyDelete