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| Flower Sculpture Glazed in Chrome Tin Red at Cone 6 |
This flower sculpture was made some months ago now and intended to be used on a steel rod in the garden. However, it looks just a nice sitting on a table. I have glazed this piece using a Cone 6 glaze called Chrome Tin Red. Its one of the most reliable cone 6 glazes I have ever used and you can experiment as I have done, by over spraying with other glazes to see what happens. Here I have used 'Fake Blue Ash' and a glaze called 'Nutmeg'. I used a white earthenware paperclay from 'Blackwattle Pottery' located in Ingleburn NSW. John manufactures his own clays onsite and I have found them to be excellent. The white earthenware clay I buy from John are recommended to be fired to 1150 deg c from memory, but I find it fires to 1200c with no issues to date. I have also used his 'White Grog Raku' clay for my raku pieces.
Here is the recipe for 'Chrome Tin Red' Cone 6 Glaze' - sometimes known as 'Raspberry Red' or 'Burgundy Red'
Whiting 21.00 grams
Gerstley Borate 8.00
Edgar Plastic Kaolin 9.00
Talc 4.00
Custer Feldspar 31.00
Ferro Frit 3134 9.00
Silica 18.00
Tin oxide 5.00
Chrome oxide 0.2
Total 105.20 grams
Here is another Chrome Tin Red/Pink glaze that is also reliable.
'Chrome Tin Red/Pink' Cone 6 (Glossy)
Gerstley Borate 21.00 grams
Nepheline Syenite 16.00
Edgar Plastic Kaolin 11.00
Whiting 20.00
Silica 32.00
Tin oxide 05.00
Chrome oxide 0.2
Total 105.20 grams
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No fussy around with the firing of this glaze and I have found that it fires well no matter what the firing schedule, but I would recommend a hold for 1/2 hr at around 900c on the way back down. I have even used this glaze in single firing with good results. Good luck and drop me a line to let me know what you think of this glaze. | ||
Do you have a clear coat over the top? Or is the finish that of the chrome tin red glaze itself?
ReplyDeleteHi Amos, What you see is the chrome tin red glaze. Its a very high gloss glaze. The purplish/blue colour you see in areas would be from the 'fake blue ash' glaze that I sprayed over the chrome tin red glaze.
ReplyDeleteThank you for the recipe and info, I love the color ... I have been looking for a good red and will try yours... I have just finished a large test on recipe re-dos and love the results I have found. I make big bird houses and need a collection of reliables to get to work on the coloring. And the purple hue is amazing.
DeleteThanks again...
Thank you for the clarification. Do you happen to have the fake blue ash glaze recipe? I am hoping that the addition of a small amount of aluminium will not mat the glaze too much.
ReplyDeleteGreat site with much information. Thank you.
ReplyDeleteAnderson Pottery, Rockport, Texas
No problem Mike. Happy to share. :)
DeleteYou Rock...I love this glaze. I used it on a casserole dish for a Mother's Day gift
ReplyDeleteHi Jan
ReplyDeletelove your red glaze. Can you please share your fake ash glaze recipe too. I simply love the sparkle of blue over the red. Thanks again
Hi Jan, the red of this glaze is beautiful. Judging from the materials list sounds food safe. But would like confirmation before using it on dishes to be used with food. Thanks for sharing.
ReplyDeleteHi wrensfield. I use this glaze on clay the matures or vitrifies at cone 6 and have also done the leaching test with lemon overnight and for the clay I use, it has been fine. However I do not use in the oven or microwave, or the dishwasher, so cannot comment about that. It does not craze on the clay I have used, but it would be a matter of doing your own tests as per usual to make sure.
ReplyDeleteIs this oxidation or reduction firing?
ReplyDeleteHi Kaia. It is oxidation
ReplyDeleteAlso, is Chrome Oxide 20%? If is, the total is 125%. If formula is in grams, then what is batch size? I'm new at making own glazes, so a little confused here. TY
ReplyDeleteChrome is 0.2%
DeleteCheck the decimal point!
Good luck!
Formula is in percent, it can be grams, ounces, kilos, pounds, tons, whatever you want. So you choose what size batch you want, divide by one hundred, and the recipe is expressed in 1/100ths of whatever you choose.
I have had a problem with my chrome-tin red glazes. If I don't apply the glaze thick enough or fire to just the right temperature, the red coloring can fade to a pasty white or tan that is very unattractive. The inside of bowls can be fine, but the outside is all faded out. Have you had this experience with these glaze formulas?
ReplyDeleteI'd like the answer to this as well. The glaze itself has a thick consistency, but when fired (to cone 6, oxidation), it washes out to a streaky white and raspberry color.
DeleteMike and Mamosa,
DeleteI sprayed these glazes onto white earthenware clay, so a nice coat is applied this way with little runs or drips. Also, because I am using earthenware and midfire clays, they are vitrified at this temp as the clay body itself is melting so to speak. This may make a difference. Mike, to me it sounds like you are not reaching the right temp for proper glaze melting/maturation? Or, perhaps the glaze is too thick. Hard to say without seeing a pic.
Mamosa, Perhaps the white streaky appearance you are seeing could be thicker areas of glaze or runs? I fired to midfire temps (Cone 5-6) and not a particularly thick application (perhaps 3-4mm). Where this glaze is thicker, it looks white and breaks on edges a white colour (see above pic, edges of petals look white).
As we know, firing temps and times are pretty hit and miss at times unless you have a programmable kiln (I don't) and temps vary within the kiln itself. Even in my own kiln, the difference between my top and bottom shelf can be a cone or two. Perhaps try a hold at 1200'c to see if that helps. I can't do that with my kiln as its manual and it shuts of at the set temp.
Hope this helps. I am not a glazing expert, but perhaps it would also depend on glaze material suppliers. Glaze materials are sourced in different places around the world and this would effect the end result too. TEST on test tiles or test bowls first before using on special pieces.
It's the other way around. Edges are thin, they break white, thicker is red. I have run tests, single dip is white, doubled and treble dipped areas are red.
DeleteI'm having the same trouble and my test tiles also showed that the thicker coat is more likely to get more red but all the tiles were more white than red. What do people use for the specific gravity of the glaze here? I started out at 1.58 and I just made a new batch with 1.45. I won't know the result until later this week. I'm also suspecting that maybe I didn't correctly disperse chrome oxide during mixing even though the glaze looks light green through out before firing.
DeleteI forgot to mention that all my tiles have been brown clay. I wonder maybe the clay body might also have something to do with it. Did all people here tried the glaze with mainly white clay?
DeleteHello!
ReplyDeleteThank you for all the info! We made this at school. It turned out Maroon. Any ideas??
If it's maroon, you could try reducing your chrome oxide percentage down. I have seen this recipe using at 0.15% instead of 0.2% as shown here. All other ingredients are the same amount. I made a mistake and had 0.8% due to my scale not being accurate. The test piece turned green and in some area a dark red/maroon but this glaze failed leaching test where the dark red spots were. It's probably leaching chrome oxide where it's dark red since it's probably too much chrome oxide.
DeleteThank You for all these nices infos, It's very kind of you.
ReplyDeleteI try this glaze in my nex firing...
Your answer comments are very instructives ...
Gojec 29
PS: Sorry for my bad English but I'm from France ...
I f0llowed this recipe, weighing out the ingredients with a triple beam Ohaus scale. Fired it at cone six on test tiles. It came out Kelly Green. What did I do wrong?
ReplyDeleteHello Jan... would you mind sharing the Fake Blue Ash recipe as well.
ReplyDeletethanks
Can we purchase the Chrome tin red anywhere?
ReplyDelete